Our Boat

My journey was safe, I'm settling in, and I have been back on board our lovely AFM (Africa Mercy) for a week now. This weekend I finally have some down time to catch up on this post (which I started a while back).

It was pretty neat flying in and being able to see the line where the Sahara ends and the Sahel (transition) region begins.

^ Sub-Sahara                                                 Sahara ^

Any of you readers out there who have been following me for a while will remember that I try to do a bit of a primer on countries I'm about to visit. I've found it to be quite valuable for my own preparation - it helps me to be familiar with the culture, history, and geography of the place before I arrive. Many folks show up (especially their first time) with little to know real knowledge of the place they're in! Perhaps they prefer to learn by first-hand experience, but I've found that having a bit of awareness of the heritage and current affairs gives you a little more credibility in certain situations.

On my first visit to the AFM, in Madagascar, I had a daily fact for the entire MONTH leading up to my departure. I obviously missed the boat, *cough* so to speak, *cough* this time, but I will sprinkle some knowledge in this post.

History & Legends

There are several possible explanations as to where the name of the Senegal River, for which the country is named, originated. My favourite theory, however, is that it came from the Wolof phrase "our boat," or "Sunu Gaal." Seems rather fitting.

*breaks into song*

♪ Our ship, in the middle of our port... ♫

Speaking of Wolof... The descendants of the Wolof (or Jolof) Empire, and later Kingdom, are one of the main people groups still inhabiting the region. The founder of this empire, Ndiadiane Ndiaye, is said to have mysteriously appeared out of a lake in the midst of a fierce dispute between two rulers. Ndiadiane equitably divided the wood they were arguing over, then disappeared back into the waters. When Ndiadiane returned to settle another dispute (this time a ruse), the rulers captured him and offered him leadership of all their lands. Oh. And a hot wife. Ndiadiane took the offer, forfeiting his immortality, and all the nearby rulers gladly joined in to his new empire.

The region changed hands several times in the following centuries - during which time the trade of captured enemies as slaves became commonplace - before French colonialism took hold.

Eventually, in 1960, the Republic of Senegal became a fully independent nation, and held their first democratic election in 1963 (although there was only one presidential candidate). The nation has had a relatively peaceful and stable government since then, certainly compared to many of its neighbours.

Speaking of Neighbours...

Within Senegal's borders is a most unusual country: The Gambia. This little country is a small swath of land, no more than 50 km across, which follows the Gambia river from the Atlantic coast about 300 km inland. Because it has some coast line to itself, it is considered a semi-enclave (a country contained entirely within another country). There's your fun geography fact for the day.

The Gambia holds the interesting distinction of being one of only four countries to denounce and leave the British Commonwealth, only to rejoin it later.

It's also the reason the map of Senegal reminds me of a heraldic lion.

See the resemblance?

Dakar Life

The capital of Senegal, where we are docked right now, certainly feels very different from other African cities I've visited. Sure, there are the usual wandering fruit vendors, the smell of open-air meat markets, and the lack of traffic rules. The overall vibe, however, is more touristy. There are more Europeans around, more wealthy locals, and a LOT of people jogging and working out. Not exactly something you see unless people can afford to work off extra calories. Senegal is certainly better off than most countries in West Africa - it's a tiny bit higher up the Human Development Index (164/189), and has made substantial gains in urban quality of life over the last few decades.



As you can see, they're making progress in some areas, but about 39% of the population still makes less than $2 a day.* Rural regions have fewer resources and social supports available to them, and this is why our screening teams are focusing on these remote areas. 75% of our patients will come from upcountry - these are our priority - while any referrals from here in Dakar will be put on a waiting list.
* Source: UN SDG Country Database

Our Bowl

The other day I learned about Thieboudienne or "Chebu Jen," a traditional Senegalese dish that I look forward to trying. The appeal of this dish comes not from the ingredients (it sounds like pretty standard fare - rice, fish & veg), but the way that it is served and eaten.

The large bowl is placed on the floor, where the meal is shared by all. Each person gets a wedge of the bowl, and the host divvies up the fish and veggies in the center as you go along. If that isn't the most profound metaphor for the beautiful, community-oriented culture I've come to love in Africa, I don't know what is.

Speaking of profound food....there's a pile of pulled pork calling my name right now, so I'd better sign off.

À la prochaine,
-D